| Southport : Original Sources in Exploration | | |
Travels to discover the source of the Nile, in the Years 1768-1773 James Bruce | | | | |
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TRAVELS TO DISCOVER THE SOURCE OF THE NILE, In the Years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771 1772, and 1773. in Five Volumes. By James Bruce (published in 1790 by G.G.J. and J. Robinson, London)
VOL. I.
INTRODUCTION.
However
little the reader may be conversant with ancient histories, in all
probability he will know, or have heard this much in general, that the
attempt to reach the Source of the Nile, the principal subject of this
publication, from very early ages interested all scientific nations:
Nor was this great object feebly prosecuted, as men, the first for
wisdom, for learning, and spirit (a most necessary qualification in
this undertaking) very earnestly interested themselves about the
discovery of the fources of this famous river, till disappointment
followed disappointment so fast, and consequences produced other
consequences so fatal, that the defign was entirely given over, as
having, upon the faired trials, appeared impracticable. Even conquerors
at the head of immense armies, who had first discovered and then
subdued great part of the world, were forced to lower their tone here,
and dared scarcely to extend their advances toward this discovery,
beyond the limits of bare wishes. At length, if it was not forgot, it
was however totally abandoned from the causes above mentioned, and with
it all further topographical inquiries in that quarter.
Upon
the revival of learning and of the arts, the curiosity of mankind had
returned with unabated vigour towards (p.ii) this object, but all
attempts had met with the fame difficulties as before, till, in the
beginning of his Majefty's reign,. the unconquerable spirit raifed in
this nation by a long and glorious war, did very naturally refolve
itself into a spirit of adventure and inquiry at the return of peace,
one of the. first- fruits of which was the discovery of these coy
fountains [1], till now concealed from the world in general.
The
great danger and difficulties of this journey were well known, but it
was likewise known that it had been completely performed without
disappointment or misfortune, that it had been attended with an
apparatus of books and instruments, which seldom accompanies the
travels of an individual; yet sixteen years had elapsed without any
account appearing, which feemed to mark an unufual self denial,. or an
absolute indifference towards the wishes of the public. Men, according;
to their different genius and dispositions, attempted by different ways
to penetrate the cause of this silence. The candid, the learned, that
species of men, in (p.iii) fine, for whom only it is worth while to
travel or to write, supposing (perhaps with some degree of truth) that
an undescrved and unexpected neglect and want of patronage had been at
least part of the cause, adopted a manner, which, being the most
liberal, they thought likely to succeed : They endeavoured to entice me
by holding out a prospect of a more generous disposition in the minds
of future ministers, when I should renew the .claim I had upon them by
having promoted the glory of the nation. Others, whom I mention only
for the sake of comparison, below all notice on any other ground,
attempted to succeed in this by anonymous letters and paragraphs in the
newspapers; and thereby absurdly endeavoured to oblige me to publish an
account of those travels, which they affected at the same time to
believe I had never performed.
But it is with very great
pleasure and readiness I do now declare, that no fantastical or
deformed motive, no peevish disregard, much less contempt of the
judgment of the world, had any part in the delay which has happened to
this publication. 1 look upon their impatience to see this work as an
earnest of their approbation of it, and a very great honour done to me;
and if I had still any motive to defer submitting these observations to
their judgment, it could only be that I might employ that interval in
polishing and making them more worthy of their perusal. The candid and
instructcd public, the impartial and unprejudiced foreigner, are
tribunals merit mould naturally appeal to; it is there it always has
found sure protection againfl the influence of cabals, and the
virulent strokes of malice, envy, and ignorance.
It is
(p.iv) with a view to give every possible information to my reader,
that in this introduction I lay before him the motives upon which these
travels were undertaken, the order and manner in which they were
executed, and some account of the work itself, as well of the matter as
the distribution of it.
Every one will remember that period,
so glorious to Britain, the latter end of the ministry of the late Earl
of Chatham. I was then returned from a tour through the greateft part
of Europe, particularly through the whole of Spain and Portugal,
between whom there then was an appearance of approaching war. I was
about to retire to a small patrimony I had received from my ancestors,
in order to embrace a life of study and reflection, nothing more active
appearing then within my power, when chance threw me unexpectedly into
a very short and very desultory conversation with Lord Chatham.
It
was a few days after this that Mr Wood, then undersecretary of state,
my very zealous and sincere friend, informed me that Lord Chatham
intended to employ me upon a particular service; that, however, I might
go down for a few weeks to my own country to settle my affairs, but by
all means to be ready upon a call. Nothing could be more flattering to
me than such an offer; when so young, to be thought worthy by Lord
Chatham of any employment, was doubly a preferment. No time was loft on
my side; but, just after my receiving orders to return to London, his
Lordship had gone to Bath, and resigned his office.
This
disappointmcnt (p.v), which was the more sensible to me, that it was
the first I had met in public life, was promised to be made up to me by
Lord Egremont and Mr George Grenville. The former had been long my
friend, but unhappily he was then far gone in a lethargic
indisposition, which threatened, and did very soon put a period to his
existence. With Lord Egremont's death my expectations vanished. Further
particulars are unnecessary, but I hope that at least, in part, they
remain in that breast where they naturally ought to be, and where I
shall ever think, not to be forgotten, is to be rewarded.
Seven
or eight months were past in an expensive and fruitless attendance in
London, when Lord Halifax was pleased, not only to propose, but to plan
for me a journey of considerable importance, and which was to take up
several years. His Lordship said, that nothing could be more
ignoble, than that, at such a time of life, at the height of my
reading, health, and activity, I mould, as it were, turn peasant, and
voluntarily bury myself in obscurity and idleness; that though war was
now drawing fail to an end, full as honourable a competition remained
among men of spirit, which mould acquit themfelves well in the
dangerous line of useful adventure and discovery.
He
observed, that the coast of Barbary, which might be said to be just at
our door, was as yet but partially explored by Dr Shaw, who had only
illustrated (very judiciously indeed) the geographical labours of
Sanson [2]; that neither Dr Shaw nor Sanson (p.vi) had been, or had
pretended to be, capable of giving the public any detail of the large
and magnificent remains of ruined architecture which they both vouch to
have seen in great quantities, and of exquisite elegance and
perfection, all over the country. Such had not been their study, yet
such was really the taste that was required in the present times. He
wished therefore that I mould be the first, in the reign just now
beginning, to set an example of making large additions to the royal
collection, and he pledged himfelf to be my supporter and patron, and
to make good to me, upon this additional merit, the promises which had
been held forth to me by former minifters for other services.
The
discovery of the Source of the Nile was also a subject of these
conversations, but it was always mentioned to me with a kind of
diffidence, as if to be expected from a more experienced traveller.
Whether this was but another way of exciting me to the attempt I shall
not say; but my heart in that instant did me justice to suggest, that
this, too, was either to be achieved by me, or to remain, as it had
done for these lad two thousand years, a defiance to all travellers,
and an opprobrium to geography.
Fortune feemed to enter into
this scheme. At the very instant, Mr Aspinwall, very cruelly and
ignominiously treated by the Bey of Algiers., had resigned his
consulship, and Mr Ford, a merchant, formerly the Dey's acquaintance,
was named in his place. Mr Ford was appointed, and dying a few days
after, the consulship became vacant. Lord Halifax pressed me to accept
of this, as containing all sort of conveniencies for making the
proposed expedition.
(p.vii) This favourable event finally
determined me. I had all my life applied unweariedly, perhaps with more
love than talent, to drawing, the practice of mathematics, and
especially that part necessary to astronomy. The tranfit of Venus was
at hand. It was certainly known that it would be visible once at
Algiers, and there was great reason to expect it might be twice. I had
furnished myself with a large apparatus of instruments, the completed
of their kind for the observation. In the choice of these I had been
-amited by my friend Admiral Campbell, and Mr Russel, Secretary to the
Turkey Company; every other necessary had been provided in proportion.
Ir was a pleasure now to know that it was not from a rock or a wood,
but from my own house at Algiers, I could deliberately take measures to
place myself in the lift of men of science of all nations, who were
then preparing for the same scientific purpose, - Thus prepared, I set
cut for Italy, through France; and though it was in time of war, and
some strong .objections had been made to particular passports folicited
by our government from the French secretary of state, Monfieur de
Choiseul most obligingly waved all such exceptions with regard to me,
and most politely assured me, in a letter accompanying my passport,
that those difficulties did not in any mape regard me, but that I was
perfectly at liberty to pass through, or remain in France, with those
that accompanied me, without limiting their number, as short or as long
a time as mould be agreeable to me.
On my arrival at Rome I
received orders to proceed to Naples, there to await his Majefty's
further commands. Sir Charles Saunders, then with a fleet before Cadiz,
had orders (p.viii). to visit Malta before he returned to England. It
was said, that the grand-mailer of that Order had behaved so improperly
to Mr Hervey (afterwards Lord Bristol) in the beginning of the war, and
so partially and unjustly between the two nations during the course of
it, that an explanation on our part was become necessary. The
grand-mailer no fooner heard of my arrival at Naples, than guessing the
errand, he sent off Cavalier Mazzini to London, where he at once made
his peace and his compliments to his Majesty upon his accession to the
throne.
Nothing remained now but to take possesion of my
consulship. I returned without loss of time to Rome, and thence to
Leghorn, where, having embarked on board the Montreal man of war, I
proceeded to Algiers. While at Naples, I received from slaves, redeemed
from the province of Constantina, accounts of magnificent ruins they
had seen while traversing that country in the camp with their master
the Bey. I saw the absolute necessity there was for affiilance, without
which it was impoilible for any one man, however diligent and
qualified, to do any thing but bewilder himself. All my endeavours,
however, had hitherto been unsuccessful to perfuade any Italian to put
himself wilfully into the hands of a people constantly looked upon by
them in no better light than pirates.
While I was
providing myself with instruments at London, I thought of one, which,
though in a very small form and imperfect state, had been of great
entertainment and use to me in former travels; this is called a Camera
Obscura, the idea of which I had first taken (p.ix) from the Spectacle de la Nature of
the Abbe Vertot. But the present one was constructed upon my own
principles; 1 intruded the execution of the glades to Messrs Nairne and
Blunt, Mathematical instrument-makers opposite to the Exchange, whom I
had usually employed upon such occasions, and with whose capacity and
fidelity I had, after frequent trials, the greatest reason to be
satisfied.
This, when finishcd, became a large and expensive
indrument; but being feparated into two pieces, the top and bottom, and
folding compactly with hinges, was neither heavy, cumbersome, nor
inconvenient, and the charge incurred by the additions and alterations
was confiderably more than compensated by the advantages which accrued
from them. Its body was an hexagon of six-feet diameter, with a conical
top; in this, as in a summer-house, the draughtsman sat unseen, and
performed his drawing. There is now, I see, one carried as a mow about
the streets, of nearly the fame dimenfions, called a Delineator, made
on the fame principles, and feems to be an exact imitation of mine.
By
means of this instrument, a person of but a moderate skill in drawing,
but habituated to the effect of it, could do more work, and in a better
state, whilst executing views of ruined architecture, in one hour, than
the readied draughtsman, so unassisted, could do in seven; for, with
proper care, patience, and attention, not only the elevation, and every
part of it, is taken with the utmost truth and justed proportion, but
the light and shade, the actual breaches as they stand, vignettes, or
little ornamental shrubs, which generally hang from and adorn the
projections and edges of the several members, are finely
expressed, and beautiful lessons given, (p.x) how to transport them
with effect to any part where they appear to be wanting.
Another
greater and ineftimable advantage is, that all landscapes, and views of
the country, which constitute the background of the picture, are real,
and in the reality shew, very strikingly indeed, in such a country as
Africa, abounding in picturefque fcenes, how much nature is superior to
the creation of the warmeft genius or imagination. Momentary masses of
clouds, especially the heavier ones, of stormy skies, will be fixed by
two or three unstudied strokes of a pencil ; and figures and dress, in
the most agreeable attitudes and folds, leave traces that a very
ordinary hand might speedily make his own/or, what is still better,
enable him with these elements to use the assistance of the best artift
he can find in every line of painting, and, by the help of these, give
to each the utmoft possible perfection; a practice which I have
constantly preferred and followed with success. It is true, this
instrument has a fundamental defect in the laws of optics; but this is
obvious, and known unavoidably to exift; and he muft be a very ordinary
genius indeed, and very lame, both in theory and practice, that cannot
apply the necessary correction, with little trouble, and in a very
short time. (p.xi) I was so well pleased with the flrst
trial of this instrument at Julia Caisarea, now Shershell, about 60
miles from Algiers, that I commissioned a smaller one from Italy, which
though negligently and ignorantly made, did me this good fervice, that
it enabled me to fave my larger and more perfect one, in my unfortunate
shipwreck at Bengazi, the ancient Berenice, on the shore of Cyrenaicum;
and this was of infinite service to me in my journey to Palmyra. Thus
far a great part of my wants were well supplied, at least such as could
be foreseen, but I still laboured under many. Besides that single
province of ruined architecture, there remained several others of
equal importance to the public. The natural history of the country, the
manners and languages of the inhabitants, the history of the heavens,
by a constant observation of, and attention to which, a useful and
intelligible map of the country could be obtained, were objects of the
utmost consequence.
Packing and repacking, mounting and
rectifying these instruments alone, befides the attention and time
necessary in using them, required what would have occupied one man, if
they had been continual, which they luckily were not, and he
fufficiently instructed. I therefore endeavoured to procure such a
number of assistants, that mould each bear his sliare in these
several departments; not one only, but three or four if possible.
I was now engaged, and part of my pride was to shew, how easy a thing
it was to disappoint the idle prophecies of the ignorant, that this
expedition would be spent in pleasure, without any profit to the
public. I wrote to several correspondents, Mr Lumisden, Mr
Strange, Mr Byers, and others in different parts of Italy, acquainting
them of my situation, and begging their assistance. These gentlemen
kindly used their utmost endeavours, but in vain.
(p.xii) It is
true, Mr Chalgrin, a young French student in architecture, accepted the
proposal, and sent a neat specimen of rectilineal architecture. Even
this gentleman might have been of some use, but his heart failed him;
he would have wished the credit of the undertaking, without the
fatigues of the journey. At last Mr Lumisden, by accident, heard of a
young man who was then studying architecture at Rome, a native of
Bologna, whose name was Luigi Balugani. I can appeal to Mr Lumisden,
now in England, as to the extent of this person's practice and
knowledge, and that he knew very little when first sent to me. In the
twenty months which he staid with me at Algiers, by affiduous
application to proper subjects under my instruction, he became a very
considerable help to me, and was the only one that ever I made use of,
or that attended me for a moment, or ever touched one-representation of
architecture in any part of my journey. He contracted an incurable
distemper in Palestine,, and died after a long sickness, foon after I
entered Ethiopia, after having fuffered constant ill-health from the
time he left Sidon.
While travelling in Spain, it was a
thought which frequently suggesed itself to me, how little informed the
world yet was in the history of that kingdom and monarchy. The Moorish
part in particular, when it was most celebrated for riches and for
seience, was scarccly known but from some romances or novels. It seemed
an undertaking worthy of a man of letters to rescue this period, from
the oblivion or neglect under which it laboured. Materials were not
wanting for this, as a confiderable number of books remained in a
neglected and almost unknown language, the Arabic. I endeavoured to
find access to some (p.xiii) of those Arabian manuscripts, an immensc
collection of which were every day perishing in the dust of the
escurial, and was indulged with several conversations of Mr Wall,
then minuter, every one of which convinced me, that the objections to
what I wished were founded so slrongly in prejudice, that it was not
even in his power to remove them.
All my success in Europe
terminated in the acquisition of those few printed Arabic books that I
had found in Holland, and these were rather biographers than general
hiftorians, and contained little in point of general information. The
study of these, however, and of Maracci's Koran, had made me a very
tolerable Arab; a great field was opening before me in Africa to
complete a collection of manuscripts, an opportunity which 1 did not
neglect.
After a year spent at Algiers, constant conversation
with the natives whilst abroad, and with my manuscripts within doors,
had qualified me to appear in any part of the continent without the
help of an interpreter. Ludolf [3] had assured his readers, that the
knowledge of any oriental language would soon enable them to acquire
the Ethiopic, and I needed only the fame number of books to have made
my knowledge of that language go hand in hand with my attainments in
the Arabic. My immediate prospect of setting out on my journey to the
inland parts of Africa, had made me double my diligence; night and day
there was no relaxation from these Studies, although the acquiring any
single language had never been with me either an object of time or
difficulty.
(p.xiv). At this instant, instead of obtaining the
liberty I had foliated to depart, orders arrived from the king to
expect his further commands at Algiers, and not to think of stirring
from thence, till a dispute about passports was settled, in which I
certainly had no concern, further than as it regarded me as his
Majesty's actual servant, for it had originated entirely from the
neglect of the former consul's letters directed to the secretary of
state at home, before my coming to Algiers.
The island of
Minorca had been taken by the French; and when the fort of St Philip
furrendered by an article common to all capitulations, it was
ftipulated, that all papers found in the fort were to be delivered to
the captors. It happened that among these was a number of blank
Mediterranean paiTes, which fell therefore into the hands of the
French, and the blanks were filled up by the French governor and
fecretary, who very naturally wished to embroil us with the Barbary
Hates, it being then the time of war with France. They were fold to
Spaniards, Neapolitans, and other enemies of the Barbary regencies. The
check [4] (the only proof that these pirates have of the vessels being
a friend) agreed perfectly with the pafsport filled up by the French
governor, but the captor feeing that the crew of these vessels were
dark-coloured, wore muflachoes, and spoke no English, carried the
veflel to Algiers, where the Britifli conful detected (p.xv) the fraud,
and was under the disagrceable neccffity of furrendering so many
Chriftians into flavery in the hands of their enemies
footnote
end footnote
.
One
or two successful discoveries of this kind made the hungry pirates
believe that the paflport of every veflel they met with, even those of
Gibraltar, were falfe imthemfelves, and iflued to protect their
enemies.. Violent commotions were excited amongft the foldiery, abetted
under hand by several of the neutral confuls there. By every
occafion I had wrote home, but in vain, and the Dcy could never be
perfuaded of this, as no anfwer arrived. Government was occupied with
winding up matters at the end of a war, and this neglect of my letters
often brought me into great danger. At last a temporary remedy was
found, whether it originated from home, or whether it was invented by
the governor of Mahon and Gibraltar, was never communicated to me, but
a surer and more effectual way of having all the nation at Algiers
maffacred could certainly not have been hit upon.
Square
pieces of common paper, about the fize of a quarter-meet, were fealed
with the arms of the governor of Mahon, fometimes with red, fometimes
with black wax, as the family circumsta nces of that officer required.
These were figned by his fignature, counterfigned by that of his
fecretary, and contained nothing more than a bare and fimple
declaration, that the vessel, the bearer of it, was British property.
These papers were called Pafavants. The cruifer, uninstructed in this
when he boarded a veflel, afked for his Mediterranean pafs. The mailer
anfwered, He had none, he had only a paffavant, and fliewed the paper,
which having no (p.xvi)check, the cruifer brought him and his vessel as
a good prize into Algiers. Upon my claiming them, as was my duty, 1 was
immediately called before the Dey and divan, and had it not been from
personal regard the Turks always shewed me, I mould not have escaped
the infults of the foldiery in my way to the palace. The Dey afked me,
upon my word as a Chriflian and an Englishman, whether these written
paries were according to treaty, or whether the word paffuvant was to
be found in any of our treaties with the Moorifli regencies .? All
equivocation was useless. I anfwered, That these pastes were not
according to treaty; that the word pajfavant was not in any treaty I
knew of with any of the Barbary Hates; that it was a measure neceffity
had created, by Minorca's falling into the hands of the French, which
had never before been the cafe, but that the remedy would be found as
foon as the greater bufiness of settling the general peace gave the
British ministry time to breathe. Upon this the Dey, holding {qnzt2\
pajfavants in his hand, anfwered, with great emotion, in these
memorable terms, " The British government know that we can neither read
nor write, no not even our own language; we are ignorant foldiers and
failors, robbers if you will, though we do not with to rob you; but war
is our trade, and we live by that only. Tell me how my cruifers are to
know that all these different wri-ings and feals are Governor Moftyn's,
or Governor Johnston's, and not the Duke of Medina Sidonia's, or
Barcelot's, captain of the king of Spain's cruifers ?" It was
impossible to answer a question so simple and so direct. I I ached then
the intrant of being cut to pieces by the foldiery, or of having the
whole British Mediterranean trade carried into the Barbary ports. The
candid and open manner in which I had spoken, the regard and efteem the
Dey (p.xvii) always had shewed me, and some other common methods with
the members of the regency, staved off the dangerous moment, and were
the means of procuring time. Admiralty partes at lad came out, and the
matter was happily adjuiled; but it was an affair the lean pleasing and
the leafl profitable, and one of the moll dangerous in which I was ever
engaged.
All this disagreeable interval I had given to
fludy, and making myself familiar with every thing that could be
necellary to me in my intended journey. The king's furgeon at Algiers,
Mr Ball, a man of confiderable merit in his profeffion, and who lived
in my family, had obtained leave to return home. Before I was deprived
of this affista nce, I had made a point of drawing from it all the
advantages possible for my future travels. Mr Ball did not grudge his
time or pains in the instruction he gave me. I had made myself master
of the art of bleeding, which I found confided only in a little
attention, and in overcoming that diffidence which the ignorance how
the parts lie occafions. Mr Ball had fliewn me the manner of applying
several forts of bandages, and gave me an idea of drefling some
kinds of fores and wounds, frequent and very useful leflbns, which I
alfo received from my friend Doctor RuiTel at Aleppo, contributed
greatly to improve me afterwards in the knowledge of phyfic and
furgery. I had a small cheft of the most efficacious medicines, a
dispenfary to teach me to compound others that were needful, and some
short treatises upon the acute diseases of several countries within the
tropics. Thus instructed, I flatter myself, no offence I hope, I did
not occasion a greater mortality among the Mahometans and Pagans
abroad, than may be attributed to (p.xviii) some of my brother
physicians among their fellow-Christians at home. .
The
rev. -Mr Tonyn, the king's chaplain at Algiers, was absent upon leave
before I arrived in that regency. The Protesta nt shipmafters who came
into the port, and had need of spirifual aflista nce, found here a
blank that was not eafily filled up; I mould therefore have been
obliged to take upon myself% the disagreeable office of burying the
dead, and the more chearful, though more troublefome one, of marrying
and baptizing the living.; matters that were entirely out of my way,
but to which the Roman Catholic clergy would contribute no assistance.
There
was a Greek prieft, a native of Cyprus, a very venerable man, part
leventy years of age, who had attached himself to me from my firfl
arrival in Algiers. This man was of a very focial and chearful temper,
and had, befides, a more than ordinary knowledge of his own language. I
had taken him to my house. as- my chaplain, read Greek with him daily,
and spoke it at times when I could receive his correction and
instmclion. It was not that I, at this time of day, needed to learn
Greek,. I had long underflood that language perfectly; what I wanted
was the pronunciation, and reading by accent, of which the generality
of English scholars are perfectly ignorant, and to which it is owing
that they apprehend the Greek spoken and written in the Archipelago is
materially different from that language which we read in books, and
which a few weeks converfation in the iflands will teach them it is
not, I had in this, at that time, no other view than mere conveaience
during my passage through the Archipelago which (p.xix) I intended to
visit, without any design of continuing or studying there : But the
reader will afterwards see of what very material fervice this
acquaintance was to me, so very essential, indeed, that it contributed
more to the success of my views in Abyssinia than any other help that I
obtained throughout the whole of it. This man's name was Padre
Chriftophoro, or Father Chriftophcr. At my leaving Algiers, finding
himself less conveniently fituated, he went to Egypt, to Cairo, where
he was promoted to be fecond in rank under Mark, patriarch of
Alexandria, where I afterwards found him.
Business of a
private nature had at this time obliged -me to present myself at Mahon,
a gentleman having promised to meet me there; I therefore failed from
Algiers, having taken leave of the Dey, who furnished me with every
letter that I afked, with strong and peremptory orders to all the
officers of his own dominions, prefsing recommendatory ones to the Bey
of Tunis and Tripoli, states independent, indeed, of the Dey of
Algiers, but over which the circumsta nces of the times had given him a
confiderable influence. The violent disputes about the passports had
rather raifed than lowered me in his efteem. The letters were given
with the bell grace poilible, and the orders contained in them were
executed mod exactly in all points during my whole flay in Barbary.
Being disappointed in the meeting I looked for at Mahon, I remained
three days in Quarantine Ifland, though General Townsend, then deputy-
governor, by every civility and attention in his power, strove to
induce (p.xx) me to come on {hore, that he might have an opportunity of
(hewing me dill more attention and politeness. My mind being now full
of more agreeable ideas than what had for some time pad occupied it, I
failed in a small veflel from Port Mahon, and, having a fair wind, in a
short time made the coaft of Africa, at a cape, or headland, called Ras
el Hamra *, and landed at Bona, a confiderable town, the ancient
Aphrodismm f, built from the ruins of Hippo Regius J, from which it is
only two miles dista nt. It Hands on a large plain, part of which feems
to have been once overflowed by the fea. Its trade confifts now in the
exportation of wheat, when, in plentiful years, that trade is permitted
by the government of Algiers. I had a delightful voyage clofe down the
coaft, and palled the small ifland Tabarca §, lately a fortification of
the Genoefe, now in the hands of the regency of Tunis, who took it by
furprife, and made all the inhabitants flaves. The ifland is famous for
a coral fishery, and along the coaft are immense forefts of large
beautiful oaks, more than fufRcient to supply the necefnties of all the
maritime powers in the Levant, if the quality of the wood be but equal
to the fize and beauty of the tree.
From Tabarca I
failed and anchored at Biferta, the Hippozaritus || of antiquity, and
thence went to pay a visit to Utica, out of respecl: to the memory of
Cato, without having fanguine expectations of meeting any thing
remarkable there (p,xxi) there, and accordingly I found nothing
memorable but the name. It may be said nothing remains of Utica but a
heap of rubbish and of small bones; without the city the trenches and
approaches of the ancient befiegers are ftill very perfect.
footnotes
* Hippo. Reg. from Ptol. Geog. lib. iv. p. 109. f Hippo. Reg. id. ib. $ AphrodLCum. id. ib. f Tbabarca, id- ib. || Plin. Ep. xxxiii. 1, 9..
end footnotes
After
doubling Cape Carthage I anchored before the fortrefs of the Goletta, a
place now of no strength, notwithstanding the figure it made at the
time of the expedition of Charles V. Rowing along the bay, between the
Cape and this anchorage, I saw several buildings and columns
ftill Handing under water, by which it appeared that old Carthage had
owed part of its destruction to the sea, and hence likewise may be
inferred the absurdity of any attempt to represent the site of ancient
Carthage upon paper. It has been, befides, at least ten times
destroyed, so that the stations, where its first citizens fell fighting
for their liberty, are covered deep in rubbish, far from being trodden
upon by those unworthy slaves who now are its masters.
Tunis
* is twelve miles distant from this : It is a large and. flourishiing
city. The people are more civilized than in Algiers, and the government
milder, but the climate is very far from being so good. Tunis is low,
hot, and damp, and deftitute of good water, with which Algiers is
supplied from, a thousand springs.
I delivered my letters from the Bey, and obtained permission to visit the country in whatever direction I mould please.
footnote LLv. Epit. xxx. 1. 9.
end footnote
Plate 12: xxxx
Footnotes:
1. "Coy fountains". This epithet given to the springs from which the Nile
rises, was borrowed from a vaj elegant English poem that appeared in Dr
Mary's Review for May 1786. It was sent to me by my friend Mr
Barrington, to.whom it was attributed, although from modesty he
disclaims it. From whatever hand it comes, the poet is defired to
accept of my humble thanks. It was received with univerfal applause
wherever it was circulated, and a considerable number of copies was
printed at the defire of the public. Accident seemed to have placed it
in Dr Mary's book with peculiar propriety, by having joined it to a
fragment of Anofto, then first published, in the same Review. It has
fince been attributed to Mr Masoo. 2. He was long a slave to the Bey of Conltamina, and appears to have been a man of capacity. 3. Ludolf, lib. i. cup. 15. 4. This is a running figure cut through the middle like the check of a bank note.
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