Southport : Original Sources in Exploration

Letters from Egypt, 1828-1829 

Jean-Francois Champollion


Letters from Egypt 1828-1829

Eleventh Letter (p.136).

El-Mélissah (between Syène and Ombos), February 10, 1829.

We have had bad luck; since our departure from Syène, to which we said goodbye on the 8th of this month, here we are on the 10th, and we are far from having crossed the distance which separates us from Ombos where we go from Asouan in 9 hours in ordinary weather; but a violent north wind has been blowing without interruption for three days, and makes us pirouette on the waves of the Nile, swollen like a small sea. without any interest; for the rest, perfect health, good courage, and preparing ourselves to explore Thebes from top to bottom, if that is not too much for our (p.138) means. We are, moreover, all cheered up by the courier which arrived yesterday in the midst of our maritime tribulations, and which finally brought me the letters from Paris of September 16, October 12 and 25, and November 15. These, adding the two previous ones, are the only letters that have reached me.

I would like to thank our venerable M. Dacier for the good lines that he kindly wrote to me on September 26th. I hope that he will have received my letter from Ouadi-Halfah of last January 1, and that he will be good enough to pardon the antiquity of my wishes for New Year's Day, already obsolete when they reach him; but Nubia, and especially the second cataract, are far from Paris, and the heart alone quickly crosses such distances.

I will write from Thebes to our friend Dubois [1], after having seen Egypt and Nubia thoroughly; I can say in advance that our Egyptians will in the future, in the history of art, make a finer figure than in the past; I bring back a series of drawings of great things, capable of converting all the obstinate.

I am transmitting to M. Drovetti the letter that M. de Mirbel wrote to me (p.137), and I am convinced that it will be received by H.H. the Pasha of Egypt, who never shrinks from useful things.

My last letter is from Ibsamboul [Abu Simbel]; I must therefore resume my route starting from this beautiful monument which we have exhausted, at the risk of being exhausted ourselves by the difficulties of its study.


Fig.1: Map of sites in Lower Nubia visited by Champollion from January 16-23, 1829 (marked by red dots).

We left it [Abu Simbel] on the 16th of January, and early on the 17th we landed at the foot of the rock of Ibrim [Kasr Ibrim], the Primis of the Greek geographers, to visit some excavations which can be seen at the bottom of this enormous mass of sandstone.

These spéos (I give this name to excavations in the rock, other than tombs) are four in number, and from different periods, but all belonging to Pharaonic times.

The oldest dates back to the reign of Thuthmosis I; the bottom of this excavation, square in shape like all the others, is occupied by 4 figures (third in nature), seated, and representing twice this Pharaoh seated between the Lord God of Ibrirn (Prim), that is to say one of the forms of the hawk-headed god Thoth, and the goddess Saté, lady of Elephantine and lady of Nubia. This spéos was a chapel or oratory consecrated to these two deities; the side walls have never been carved or painted.

(p.140) This is not the case with the second spéos; this belongs to the reign of Moeris, whose statue, seated between those of the god lord of Ibrim and the goddess Saté (Juno), lady of Nubia, occupies the niche at the back. This chapel to the gods of the country was dug by the care of a prince named JSahi, a great personage, bearing in all legends the title of Governor of the southern lands, which included Nubia between the two cataracts. What remains of a large picture sculpted on the right wall shows us this prince standing, before the king seated on a throne, and accompanied by several other public functionaries, presenting to the sovereign, as the hieroglyphic inscription says ( unfortunately very short) which accompanies this table, the revenues and tributes in gold, silver, grain, etc., coming from the southern lands of which he had the government. On the door of the spéos is inscribed the dedication that the prince made of the monument.

The third spéos at Ibrim is from the following reign, from the time of Amenhotep II, successor of Moeris, under which the lands of the south were administered by another prince, named Osorsaté. On the right wall, this king Amenhotep II is represented seated, and two princes, among whom Osorsaté occupies the first row, present (p.141) to the Pharaoh the tributes of the southern lands and the natural productions of the country, including lions , living greyhounds and jackals, as the inscription engraved above the picture bears, and which specified the number of each of the objects offered, as for example: 40 live greyhounds and 10 live jackals; but the text is in such a deplorable state of degradation that it was impossible for me to extract anything from it other than the general facts. At the bottom of the spéos, the statue of King Amenophis is seated between the gods (.Vibrini.

The most recent of these spéos, the 4th (plate 39), is another monument of the same kind and from the reign of Sesostris, Rhamses-le-Grand. It was also a governor of Nubia who had it dug in honor of the gods of 7Z>n>72, Hermes with the head of a hawk, and the goddess Saté, to the glory of the Pharaoh whose statue is seated in the middle of the two local deities, in the background of the spéos. But, at that time, the lands of the south were governed by an Ethiopian prince, whose monuments I have found at Ibsamboul and at Ghirsché. This character is figured in the spéos at Ibrim, paying his respectful homage to Sesostris, and at the head of all the public functionaries of his government, among whom there are two hierogrammates, plus the grammate of (p.142) troops, the grammate of the lands, the steward of the royal estates, and other scribes without further designation.

Plate 39: 4th cliff temple [speos] at Ibrim: 1) Left wall; 2) right wall.

[Description pl.39  in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835): 
"The two subjects of this plate are taken from one of the speos (cliff temple) of Ibrim, the 4th, which is the most northerly.
1. Left wall. King Amenopbis II (XVIII dynasty), helmet, offering the image of a pyramid, is presented by the god Horus to several divinities; three of them, Chnouphis, Sate and Anouké, are featured on our board.
2. Right wall. This same king, in the interior of a building indicated by the two columns, is seated on his throne and holds in his hands the scepter and the cross; a fan-bearer is behind him and fulfills his office; two other characters present the emblem of victory to the king. Outside the edifice (at left) is the goddess Saté, standing, holding her divine insignia in her hands."]

It is to be noted, to the honor of Egyptian gallantry, that the wife of the Ethiopian prince Satnouï presents herself before Sesostris immediately after her husband, and before the other functionaries. This shows, as well as a thousand other similar facts, how much Egyptian civilization differed essentially from that of the rest of the East, and approached ours; for one can appreciate the degree of civilization of peoples according to the more or less bearable state of women in the social organization.

On the evening of January 17, we were at Dérri or Derr, the present capital of Nubia, where we supped on our arrival, by an admirable moonlight, and under the tallest palm trees that we had yet seen. Having struck up a conversation with a barabra from the country, who, seeing me alone apart on the edge of the river, had politely come to make me company by offering me some brandy of dates, I asked him if he knew the name of the sultan who had built the temple of Derri; he answered me immediately: that he was too young to know that, but that the old men of the country had seemed to him all to agree that this Dirbé had been built approximately three hundred thousand years (p.143) before Islamism, but that all these The old men were still uncertain on one point, whether it was the French, the English, or the Russians who had executed this great work.

This is how history is written in Nubia. The monument of Dérri, although modern in comparison with the date given to it by my Nubian scholar, is nevertheless the work of Sesostris [Ramesses III]. We stayed there all day on the 18th, and did not come out quite late until we had drawn the most important bas-reliefs, and drawn up a detailed notice of all those of which no copies were taken.

Plate 40: Grand Hall of Temple at Derr. (1 and 2:) South Wall, lower register. (3 and 4:) East wall, inscription with names of sons and daughters of Ramesses III.
 
[Description pl.40  in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835): 
"1.Portion of a bas-relief existing in the hemi-speos [half cliff temple] of Derr, in Nubia, and representing a victory of Rhamses the Great. The vanquished, placed in front, carry off their wounded and retire to a mountain where shepherds guard the flocks. One of these shepherds relates this event to a frightened woman, who has taken a child from her.
2. Continuation of the same bas-relief. Three Egyptian military leaders bring back the prisoners taken, presumably, in the same fight (The middle group is damaged; there is no more visible than the heads of the prisoners and the figure of the leader who led them.)
3. Table taken from the same monument, containing the names and titles of seven male children of Ramses the Great; the columns are arranged from right to left; the dotted signs are lacunae of the onginal; the restitution is taken from similar monuments.
4. Table, matching the previous one, containing the names of nine daughters of the same Rhamses. The columns are arranged from left to right (Same observation for the dotted signs.)"]


There I found a list, by rank of age, of the sons and daughters of Sesostris (plate 40-3+4); it will serve me to complete that of Ibsamboul. We have copied some fragments of historical bas-reliefs there; they are almost all erased or destroyed. It was there that I was able to fix my opinion on a rather curious fact: I mean the lion which, in the pictures of Ibsamboul and Derr, always accompanies the Egyptian conqueror; it was a question of whether this animal was placed there symbolically to express the valor and strength of Sesostris, or whether this king really had, like the capitan-pasha Hassan and the pasha of Egypt, a tamed lion, his companion faithful in military expeditions. Derri decides the question: I read, in fact, above (p.144) lion throwing himself on the Barbarians overthrown by Sesostris, the following inscription: the lion, servant of his majesty is putting his enemies to pieces . This seems to demonstrate to me that the lion really existed and followed Rhamses into battle.

For the rest, this temple is a speos [cliff palace]  dug in the sandstone rock, but on a very large scale: it was dedicated by Sesostris to Ammon Ra, the supreme god, and to Phre, the spirit of the Sun that one there invoked under the name of  Rhamses 
who was the patron of the conqueror and all his lineage (plate 41-2)

Plate 41: Other bas-reliefs of the Temple at Derr. 1) North wall of Portico. 2) East wall of the Sanctuary. 3) East Hall at right.  4) East Hall at left.

[Description pl.41 in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835): 
"1. The god Phré (the sun), with the head of a hawk, adorned with a rich headdress, holding in his left hand the scepter of the gods, and the sign of divine life in the right.
2. The namesake god of Rhamses the Great, sun guardian of justice, who is also his patron and that of most Rhamses.
3. Bas-relief of the same monument. King Rhamses the Great, Sesostis, receives from the hands of the goddess Saf-ri, the scepter of panegyres. The cartouches, surname and first name of the king, are engraved above his head.
4. The same king, dressed as the god Socharis, is led by Harmesi and Atmu before the god Phre assisted by the goddess who wears a naos on her head. One of the first two gods presents the king with the sign of divine life."]

This peculiarity explains why we find on the monuments of ibsamboul, Ghirché, Derr (plate 41), Séboua, etc., King Rhamses presenting offerings or his worship to a god bearing the same name of Rhamses. We would be mistaken in supposing that this sovereign worshiped himself. Rhamses was simply one of the thousand names of the god Phre (the Sun), and these bas-reliefs only prove at most a sacerdotal flattery towards the living king, that of giving to the god of the temple that of these names that the king had adopted, and sometimes even the features of the face of the king and queen founders of the temple: this is recognizable even at Philae, in the part of the great temple of Isis, built by Ptolemy-Philadelphus. All the /sw of the sanctuary (p .145) are the portrait of Queen Arsinoë, who obviously has a head of Greek race: but the thing is even more striking on the ancient monuments (the Pharaonic ones), where the features of the sovereigns are true portraits.

On the evening of the 18th we went down to Amada, where we remained until the 20th afternoon. There I had the pleasure of studying at ease and without being distracted by curious people, since we were in the middle of the desert, a temple of the good old days. This monument, very encumbered with sands, is composed first of a kind of pronaos, a room supported by 12 square pillars, covered with sculptures, and by 4 columns, which one cannot better name than proto-Doric ^ or Doric prototypes, as they are evidently the type of the Greek Doric column; and, by a singularity worthy of remark, I find them employed only in the most ancient Egyptian monuments, that is to say in the hypogea of Beni-Hassan, at Amada, at Raruac, and at Bet-oualli, where are the most modern, although they date from the reign of Sesostris, or rather that of his father.

Plate 49: Amada: temple of Phre. 1. First room, second pillar on the left. 2,3,4, Temple of Phre, secos, right wall.
[Description pl.49 in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835): 
1. Head of King Thuthmosis IV (of the XVIII dynasty \ headdressed as the god Socharis, followed by his royal legend.
2. Head of King Thuthmose 01 (King Maris, of the XVIII Dynasty), followed by his
royal legend.
3. Helmeted head of King Amenothph or Amenophis II, of the same dynasty.
4. Head of the same king.
This subjects have been taken from bas-reliefs in the Temple of Phre, the Sun, at Amada, Nubia.

The temple of Amada was founded by Thouthmosis III (Moeris), as most of the bas-reliefs in the sanctuary prove (plate 49), and especially the dedication, carved on the two jambs of the interior doors (pl.45, 5+7), and of which I put here the (p.146) literal translation to give an idea of the dedications of the other temples, all of which I have carefully collected. (V. the hieroglyphic text^ pl. VI, )

"The Beneficent God, Lord of the world, the King (Sun stabiteurder univers) [2], the son Sun (Thouthmosis) [3], moderator of justice, has made his devotions to his father the god Phre, the god of the two celestial mountains, and raised to him this temple of hard stone; he did it to be quickened forever."


Plate 45: Amada, Temple of Phre: 1. To the left of the secos door. 2. lintel of the same door. 3. lintel of a side door of the sanctuary. 4. in the corridor of the front door. 5. door frame of the sanctuary. 6 north of the same sanctuary. 7. on the interior face of the jambs of the front door.

[Description pl.49 in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835): 
1. King Amenophis II, purified by the gods Horus and Thoth. (Amada Temple]
2, 3, 4, 5, and 7. Inscriptions taken from the same temple.
6. Full-length figure of the same king Amenophis II (Colored.)

Moeris died during the construction of this temple, and his successor, Amenhotep II, continued the work begun, and had the four rooms sculpted to the right and left of the sanctuary, as well as part of the one preceding them; the works of this king are detailed in an enormous stele, bearing an inscription of 20 lines which I have all copied, with the sweat of my brow, at the bottom of the sanctuary.

His successor, Thuthmose IV, completed the temple by adding the pronaos and the pillars; all their architraves have been covered with his dedications or laudatory inscriptions. One of them struck me with its singularity; here is the translation:

“This is what the god Thoth, the Lord (p.147) of the divine words, says to the other gods who reside in Thyri: Hasten and contemplate these great and pure offerings, made for the construction of this temple, by King Thuthmose (IV), to his father the god Phre, great god, manifested in the firmament!

The sculpture of the temple of Amada, belonging to the beautiful period of Egyptian art, is much preferable to that of Derr, and even to the religious picture of Ibsamboul.

Fig.2: Temple at Wadi-Es-Seboua, from a lithograph by David Roberts (1838).

On the 21st we were at Wadi-Es Seboua (the valley of the lions), which receives this name from an avenue of sphinxes placed on the dromos of its temple, (p.148) which is a hemi-spéos, that is- that is to say, an edifice half built of hewn stone, and half hollowed out of the rock; it is, without a doubt, the worst work of the time of Rhamses-le-Grand; the stones of the building are badly cut, the intervals were masked by cement on which the decorative sculptures had been continued, which are of rather mediocre execution.

This temple was dedicated by Sesostris to the god Phré and to the god Phtha, lord of justice: four colossi representing Sesostris standing occupy the beginning and the end of the two rows of sphinxes which make up the avenue: two historical paintings, representing the Pharaoh striking the peoples of the North and the South, cover the external face of the two massifs of the pylon (plate 50-1); but most of these sculptures are unrecognizable, because the mastic or cement which had received a large part of them, has fallen off, and leaves a host of gaps in the scene, and especially in the inscriptions. This temple is almost entirely buried in the sands, which invade it on all sides (fig.2).


Plate 50:  1. Temple (hemi-speos) of Wadi-Es Seboua, pylon, massif on the right. 2: courtyard, massif on the left, basement. 3. Temple of Dakka, first sanctuary, right wall, 2nd row.

[Description pl.50 in Monuments of Egypt and Nubia by J-F Champollion (1835):
"The subject of this plate is taken from the hemi-spéos of Wadi Es Seboua; the name of Rhamses the Great, Sesostris, is there recalled in all the historical or religious pictures. We read it in this one, where this king is represented with his head adorned with the divine hairstyle; he holds in his hands the hair of eight standing captives. The king threatens them with his battle-axe, and seems to want to immolate them before the god Phre. The inscription which is above the figure of the god is incomplete in our copy, because it is mutilated on the monument.
2. One of the daughters of Sesostris; with a unique hairstyle.
3 One of the numerous bas-reliefs of the temple of Dakka is reproduced here. A king wearing a helmet of Arsenoe makes an offering. This king is Ergamene, who reigned for some time in Ethiopia, from the period of the first Ptolemies."]

The whole day of the 22nd was lost for us, on account of a very violent north wind, which forced us to land and keep quiet on the shore until sunset. We took advantage of the calm to reach Méharrakah, whose temple (p.149) we had seen on the way up: it is not sculpted, and therefore of no interest to me, who only seeks the hadjar-maktoub (the stones written ), as our Arabs say.

The rising sun of the 23rd found us at Dakka, the ancient Pselcis. I ran to the temple, and the first hieroglyphic inscription which fell before my eyes told me that I was in a holy place dedicated to Thoth, lord of Pselk: I thus increased my map of Nubia with a new hieroglyphic name of city, and today I could publish a map of Nubia with the ancient names in sacred characters.

The monument of Dakkèh presents a double interest under the mythological report; it provides infinitely precious materials for understanding the nature and the attributions of the divine being whom the Egyptians adored under the name of Thoth (the twice-great Hermes); a series of bas-reliefs offered me, in a way, all the transfigurations of this god. I found him there first (what must have been) in connection with Har-Hat (the great Hermes Trismegistus), his primordial form, and of which he, Thoth, is only the last transformation, that is say his incarnation on earth following Ammon-Ra and Mouth incarnated in Osiris and Isis. Thoth goes back to the celestial Hermes (Har-Hat), divine wisdom, the spirit of God, passing through the forms: 1° of Pahitnufi (the one whose heart is good); 2° of Arihosnofri or Arihosnoufi (the one who produces the harmonious songs); 3° of Meui (thought or reason) under each of these names Thoth has a particular form and insignia, and the images of these various transformations of the second Hermes cover the walls of the temple of Dakkëh. I forgot to say that I found here Thoth (the Egyptian Mercury) armed with the caduceus, that is to say the ordinary scepter of the gods, surrounded by two serpents, plus a scorpion.

From a historical point of view, I have recognized that the oldest part of this temple (the penultimate hall) was built and carved by the most famous of the Ethiopian kings, Ergamenes (Erkamen), who, according to the account of Diodorus of Sicily, delivered Ethiopia from theocratic government, by an atrocious means, it is true, by slaughtering all the priests of the country, he probably did not do the same in Nubia, since he erected a temple and this monument there. proves that Nubia ceased to be subject to Egypt from the fall of the XXVI dynasty, that of the Saites, dethroned by Cambyses, and that this region passed under the yoke of the Ethiopians until the time of the conquests of Ptolemy Euergetes I which reunited it again with Egypt. Also the temple of Dakkèh, started by the Ethiopian Ergamènes, was continued by Ëvergète I, by his son Philopator and his grandson Évergetes II. It was the Emperor Augustus who carried out, without completing, the interior sculpture of this temple.

  


Footnotes:

1.  Dubois is the head of the Archaeological Commission sent to the Morea by the French government.
2. 
1st cartouche.
3.  2nd cartoucbe.




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